Author Archive
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- Austin: Who are you today, Baby?
- Robin Swallows: My name is Robin Swallows.
- Austin: Swallows. That’s an interesting name.
- Robin Swallows: Maiden name is Spitz.
- Austin: Well, which is it, Baby, Spitz or Swallows?
The situation: you go to a wine tasting where many different wines are being poured. The idea is to sell you some of those wines. You approach the first table with wine glass in hand. You receive a small pour. You sniff. You swirl. You sip. And then? Which is it, Baby?
That indeed is the question. Having spent virtually no time pondering it, I can say the choice is fraught with risks. But why spit to begin with? Seems like a waste of perfectly good wine, no? Typically, professional tasters do this when assessing a number of wines to determine relative quality and to make buy/no-buy decisions. No good can come of making a decision to a buy a bottle, case (or a pallet) of something toward the end of an afternoon of swallowing wines. Been there, done that.
But if you do swallow before ordering, Caveat Emptor.
Spit.
Proper Technique– notice the slight lean forward and the wine clearing all clothing. And you get extra credit for standing on the barrel.
Technique. The Goal– to taste your wine without wearing your wine. First off– don’t take too much wine into your mouth. A small mouthful is usually sufficient. Swirl the wine around your mouth to hit every part of the tongue. Salt, sour, sweet, bitter zones. Lean forward slightly and aim for the spit bucket. 
Push the wine out but not too forcefully expelling it in a steady stream. Try not to miss– nothing pisses off tasting room staff than some yahoo spitting on their bar. If you must, bring your face closer to the spit bucket, but watch out for the nasty splash back (for this reason alone, you may want to snag your own personal paper cup for this purpose).
Spit Buckets. There are unwritten rules when using the spit bucket. First, if the tasting event you are attending is a social gathering, then ask if it is ok to spit right into the bucket. Seems that some folks who are there just to drink, don’t like the sight of spitting wine any more than say the spitting that accompanies chewing tobacco. More often than not they will hand you a plastic cup for you to do your business. But if you’re in a winery, the spit bucket is your friend.
Drains. First time I saw this was with a wine maker friend who spurt out into the drains at the winery. Cooool! I don’t have many opportunities to do this at home, so had to go for it. Just watch out for splashes on your trousers, or worse, Ms. R’s white sandals!
Socially Unacceptable? Not for me. Socially unacceptable is getting so toasted you can’t tell the difference between a wine glass and a spit bucket. I save those nights for when I’m home or with close friends! More on the value of good friends shortly.
The Wrong Technique. Spit? Swallow? Spit? Swallow? What to do? NOT THIS.
Swallow.Reasons to swallow? We need reasons?
Like Waka Flocka Flame raps “It’s a party, it’s a party, it’s a party!” Just remember, you can have too much of a good thing. Otherwise, you could end up like Judge Rivington who reportedly fell off of the ferry after the Spring Tasting sponsored by Niles and Frasier Crane’s Wine Club.
This is an obvious reason to swallow– it tastes good. Ultimately, wine is a food item, is it not? And given that, it is meant to be and should be enjoyed and savored. Putting aside all the talk of the mystical-magical-transcendent properties of wine, it is about bringing a little more enjoyment to life, a meal, a moment.
Look Ma, No hands!
Are there wines that are just too good to spit? Naturally and when this happens, I swallow with the best of them. But even too much good wine will take you to the Point of No Return. I read recently about a very well-known English wine writer who several years back had so much good old French Bordeaux at a “tasting” that she uncharacteristically misplaced her tasting notebook. “Woopsy!”
Can you be too thirsty to spit. This is the Danger Zone. Think of it– hot summer day, crisp white sipper sitting on ice. Your last meal was earlier that morning Could a couple of quickly quaffed glasses be so bad? (“Hey, is that Waka Flocka on the iPod?”) Oh Yeah– just don’t forget to just hit the water and the buffet table before the party goes out-of-bounds.
Is it possible to be too grossed-out to spit. Yes. But, that’s not me. But you know what’s really gross?
Judge Rrrrrrrrrrivinton are you in there?
Well at least she’s got nice– um– shoes and a little help from a good friend. But I don’t envy her choice of spit bucket. I suppose for some people, the matter of spitting is not one of whether to do so, but rather when: Spit NOW or Spit LATER.
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This little guy doesn’t have a guilty bone in his body. Neither should you. Every Wednesday (though it could be Tuesday or Thursday) I will write-up a wine that I feel delivers good value for drinking in the middle of the week. Aside from quality, my only other criteria is price. To start, less than $15, but ideally less than $10, for a 750 ml bottle.
I will also add any recipes that I paired with the wine. I hope to leave you with a recipe that you can use to match up with a wine of your choice if you can’t locate the one I recommend.
No-Guilt Wednesday is not about compromising on quality. It’s about all about drinking good wine that does not break the bank, eating good food and of course, it’s about sharing with the ones you love.
Back in 2006, I had a dinner at La Pentola Dell Oro Osteria in Florence, Italy. Scrolling through their menu earlier today, I came across the following menu item:
Risotto al Verde
Mantecato al burro con spinaci e pecorino toscano
I never had this dish when I was last there, but the thought of a risotto tonight was just more than I could resist. And spinach laced risotto would hit the spot. Now La Pentola’s version has cream and butter. We’re trying to cut back on calories, so held off on that. My version has a sautéed spinach blended into a mushroom broth that is used to prepare the risotto. Filling and satisfying, serve this as a first course before a roasted/grilled meat. And maybe I will add the butter and cream next time.
Domaine Sainte-Eugenie Le Clos 2009 ($9). From Languedoc, this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Grenache felt a little flabby to me since the acidity was just a tad too soft making it a not so great food wine. Still, this does have some elements that recommend it: baked cherry pie and cedar notes on the nose which played out on the palate. A short to medium finish with medium tannins. It would have been so much better though with slightly higher acidity. Still, I enjoyed this enough that I would have it again. Rated **
Green Risotto with Pecorino
Ingredients
- 1 cup of dried mushrooms reconstituted in 4 quarts of boiling water, creating a mushroom broth. Season with a smal amount of salt (1/2 tsp.) Remember the Pecorino brings a natural saltiness to the dish at the end.
- 3 tbsps EVOO for the spinach
- 3 cups of baby spinach
- 3 tbsps EVOO for the onion
- 1 Medium sized White Onion finely diced
- 1 1/2 cups Arborio Rice
- 1 1/2 cups of grated Pecorino Romano cheese
Directions:
- Boil dried mushrooms in 4 quarts of boiling water, creating a mushroom broth
- While the mushroom broth is being prepared, saute the spinach in 3 tbsps of EVOO until wilted and shrunken in size. Set aside.
- Add spinach to the mushroom broth and blend with a hand blender (or use a regular blender being careful not to scald yourself with the hot broth– ie., use the lid of the blender)
- Saute the White Onion in 3 tbsps of EVOO in a frying pan until soft, but not carmelized
- Add the arborio rice and stir with the onions for 3 minutes over medium heat
- Using a ladle, add enough of the broth to cover the rice and turn heat down to low
- Gently stir the rice adding the spinach-mushroom broth as you go along until the rice puffs up and is fully cooked. Be patient, this could take 20+ minutes. (cooking tip: keep a glass of wine with you during this part of the meal prep)
- Once the rice is fully cooked (a little al dente), stir in the Pecorino
- Serve immediately
Serves 2-4
Sybarite Sauvage ©
This little guy doesn’t have a guilty bone in his body. Neither should you. Every Wednesday (though it could be Tuesday or Thursday) I will write-up a wine that I feel delivers good value for drinking in the middle of the week. Aside from quality, my only other criteria is price. To start, less than $15, but ideally less than $10, for a 750 ml bottle.
I will also add any recipes that I paired with the wine. I hope to leave you with a recipe that you can use to match up with a wine of your choice if you can’t locate the one I recommend.
No-Guilt Wednesday is not about compromising on quality. It’s about all about drinking good wine that does not break the bank, eating good food and of course, it’s about sharing with the ones you love.
Rozay Crazay: Seems like the Universe has gone wild for the rosé. Why is that? Have we forgotten the days of Lancers? Mateus? Riuniti? OK, so this is not that. But as with those other earlier incarnations, I still get a happy thrill from popping the pink bottles. It’s sexy. It practically guarantees a great night with that special someone. At the very least it creates the right mood that occupies the space between lightness and romance, between flirtation and the brush of an eyelid on a cheek.
The Zeitgeist in favor of rosés is almost overwhelming now. It could be that they are having their moment because there are so many good ones available. But what makes a good rosé? Transluscently pink. Aromas of strawberry harvest. A touch of sweet ripe red berries, balanced by a refreshing mouthwatering acidity.
So what do we have here?
Parés Baltà Ros de Pacs Penedès 2010 ($11). This vino sported rich and robust strawberry and almost cherry-like flavors as it opened up. This Spanish wine is constructed with typically French varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Syrah. It was delicious, yes. It had refreshing acidity, yes. It had clean crisp flavors that I kept coming back to. But it was barely a rosé to my eyes– darkly hued by comparison to traditional rosé standards, this Spanish rosé challenges traditional notions of what a rosé should be. It is more robust than the traditional French style. I see it less as a rosé and more as a very light red wine. Does that really matter? No. Rated **1/2.
Michel-Schlumberger La Flirt Rosé of Merlot 2010 ($20). Ms. R and I matched the Parés Baltà against the more traditionally made rosé made by a favored Dry Creek Valley producer, Michel Schlumberger, which we had leftover from a couple of nights ago. Watermelon and just ripened strawberry flavors dominate. Sweetness balanced by acidity in a more classically French styled rosé. Also Rated **1/2.
Take your pick or do as we do– drink them both!
But what to eat with such nice wines? After a holiday week filled with beef and pizza, we were ready for lighter fare. Fresh tilapia was available at the market tonight. I’m thinking we need a traditional lemon caper sauce to go with it; but I also want some starch. How about a basil linguine with red onion, haricots vert, garlic and tomatoes? There is enough pasta here for 4 people. But just try to not eat more than your share! Yes, garlic, capers, lemon, tomatoes and rosé. So many flavors. So very good.
Cedar Planked Tilapia with Lemon-Caper Sauce
Ingredients
- 1 lb. Tilapia
- 1 Tbsp. EVOO
- Salt & Pepper to taste
- 3 Tbsp EVOO
- 1 Garlic Clove thinly sliced
- 1/4 cup dry white wine
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- 2 Tbsp. Sweet Butter
- 3 Tbsp. Nonpareil Capers
Directions:
- Soak cedar planks in water for at least 30 minutes. Longer is better.
- Meanwhile, drizzle 1 Tbsp. of EVOO over the Tilapia and season with salt and pepper
- Heat your grill on high. And when ready, place moistened planks on grill and turn off the burner(s) underneath the planks. The idea is to scorch the planks but not burn them. Place Tilapia on the planks and cover grill to cook using indirect heat from the burner(s) that are not directly under the planks.
- While the Tilapia is cooking, heat up a pan and put 3 tbsp Olive Oil in pan and add Slice Garlic till aromatic, but do not burn it
- Add White Wine and Lemon and bring to a boil
- Reduce Heat to simmer and add Butter and Capers
- Reduce sauce by one half but be careful not to burn it– turn off heat and set aside
- Season sauce with salt and pepper to taste
- When Tilapia is done cooking (about 6-10 minutes), remove from grill and plate dressing the fish with the lemon caper sauce
Serves 2
Sybarite Sauvage ©
Basil Linguine
Ingredients
- 1 lb. Basil Linguine (spinach works fine as well)
- 1/2 cup EVOO
- 1 Garlic Clove thinly sliced
- One medium-sized red onion cut into thin slices
- 2 cups of haricots vert (frozen work fine)
- 4 Campari tomatoes quartered or 10-15 grape tomatoes halved
- Salt & Pepper to taste
Directions:
- Bring 4-6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add enough 1/4 cup of salt so that water is salty to the taste
- Boil linguine in salted water until cooked al dente
- While pasta is cooking, warm up EVOO in a large pan and add garlic and saute over medium heat for 30 seconds until oil become fragrant (do not burn the garlic)
- Add garlic, red onion and haricots vert. Cook until onions are soft– about 5 minutes
- Once these ingredients are cooked add the tomatoes to warm up but do not overcook them
- Taste the sauce and adjust seasonings to taste
- Once pasta is finished cooking, reserve 1/2 cup of pasta cooking liquid and drain the pasta
- Add the pasta to the pan with the sauce and toss. If needed, add some of the pasta cooking liquid to the pan. Toss again until coated.
- Plate alongside the Cedar Planked Tilapia– no cheese necessary
Serves 4 (maybe)
Sybarite Sauvage ©
You want a picnic wine? How about a warm-summer-day-on-the-deck-wine? Here it is. After I wrote the review, I had this with slices of a spicy Italian sausage and it did not seem to be a bit overwhelmed. In fact, even a little bit better.
Sometimes, you just want to drink something that you don’t want to over-think. Yep, I know, that whole notion runs counter to one of the premises of this blog. My bad, so here’s our review:
El Coto Blanco Rioja 2009 ($9). Made from 100% viura grapes farmed in Rioja Alavesa, it wears a pale straw-colored robe. On the nose, soft florals dominate offering whispers alternating between jasmine and citrus. An almost salty-like minerality prevails giving the wine a refreshing quality. Not a particularly terrific finish. But very quaffable indeed. Rated **
But I think that this could also be much better with raw oysters on the half-shell. Now that suggestion is pure speculation, because the Sybarite Sauvage’s larder was absent such bivalave mollusks. Did I hear someone mention shrimp cocktail? Yeah, it’s summer– you try it and let me know.
Did someone say viura? What is that? Viura which is alternately known as Macabeo is a varietal grown in Spain and is often blended with other varietals as it makes its way into the cavas (the Spanish sparkling wine) that I generally favor over champagne. So sue me.
Want to learn more about Viura from someone who really knows what she’s talking about? See Jancis Robinson’s discussion at http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/a201001042.html
Which of the following two Cabs would you like to drink?
Wine #1: Dry, dustily tannic and somewhat closed down, this Cabernet clearly wants some time in the cellar. It has rich, juicy blackberry and cherry flavors, but the tannins and acidity close in fast, locking them down and making the wine astringent and tart. Give it a few years, or decant if you’re opening it now.
Wine #2: The fragrant bouquet of blueberries and flowers is followed by admirable complexity, sweet tannins, a medium to full-bodied, graceful mouthfeel and no hard edges. Drink this outstanding * * * Cabernet over the next 15+ years.
Pretty simple decision, huh? Wine #2, is the hands down winner, right? But for the price of a single $34 bottle you can have them both, for they are the same wine: Frank Family Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007.
A quick word about the 2007 vintage. This appears to be an excellent one according to the established wine-press– 94-97 points per the Wine Spectator, 95 points per the Wine Enthusiast and 96 Points according to the Wine Advocate. So expectations for this wine should be pretty high. And at $34 that would seem justified.
Two reviewers. Same Wine. Two different experiences. In fact Reviewer #1 had what I would call a pretty unpleasant experience. Aside from the disparate reviews, what I find puzzling is Reviewer #1’s generous rating: 90 Points. How can an astringent, tart and closed down wine be a 90-pointer? Is he rewarding the wine for what it will become? Perhaps, but how can he know for sure? Is he rewarding the Frank Family for past performance? I hope not.
Some comparative observations drawn from these two reviews are worth calling out:
Nose: Reviewer #1 got hung up on the wine being closed down while the other got a “bouquet of blueberries and flowers”. Off the bat, it seems like two different wines.
Fruit: Reviewer #1 got “juicy blackberry and cherry flavors” while Reviewer #2, despite talk of that “bouquet of blueberries” did not really give us much information on this point. This seems like an odd omission.
Tannins: “sweet tannins” vs. “dustily tannic”– one pleasant and one, not so much.
Acidity: Reviewer #1 seems overwhelmed by acidity, while Reviewer #2 noticed “no hard edges”.
Mouth Feel: “astringent and tart” vs. “graceful mouthfeel”.
These two reviews emphasize what a personal experience wine really is and so any attempt to reconcile them is futile. But it might also indicate that there may have been some bottle variation or worse, depending on where it was tasted, perhaps damage in transport.
Assuming no bottle variation and no damage to the wine, what are we consumers to do, given such contradictory information? It is best to remember that reviews are merely opinions, not scientific fact, despite the scientific exactitude implied by that 100 point scale. As with all things that one experiences through the senses– be it Painting, Food, Sculpture, Wine and even Lovers– notions of Beauty are intimately personal. Let us then make this totally personal. We shall taste and make up our own minds.
We shared a bottle of the Frank Family cab amongst 4 of us during a picnic supper of charcuterie, cheese and marinated Lomo Saltado (that’s right we recycled the Independence Day fare) Steak Sandwiches on crispy baguettes with a garlic-paprika-mustard-aioli prior to the outdoor performance of Shakespeare’s Much Ado About Nothing.
Now we’re not professional reviewers, but we know what we like and what we do not. Generally, whenever I see wine reviews that take such different views of the same wine, I tend to generally agree with the lesser review. Whether that’s a coincidence or just the way my brain is wired, I can’t say. But merrily, not tonight, as the more flattering review prevailed. Here is my take:
Frank Family Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. The wine was indeed closed, but only in the beginning. Then it blossomed and gave us a pretty nice experience: By turns, notes of cassis and eucalyptus mixed with just a hint of vanilla on the nose. Dark fruit and cherries on the palate. The tannins were soft and sweet. And a touch of acidity on the back-end polished it off. It kept evolving down to the last drop. I found it to be a pretty well-balanced wine– and my experience to be closer to Reviewer #2. Rated ***
So who does #2 work for? He works for us.
OK, maybe we like to think that, but not really– in fact, he may be the Number 1 of the wine world (you know who I mean).
The identities of the two professional reviewers?
Reviewer # 1 Wine Enthusiast Score: 90. —Steve Heimoff, April 01, 2011.
Reviewer #2: Wine Advocate Score: 93. —Robert Parker, December 2010.
But just to compare this to a Napa peer, my buddy brought along another 2007 Napa wine from a favorite and fabled producer: the
Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (2007). By comparison to the Frank Family Cabernet, this one did seem closed off. A good wine with solid fruit and more chewy tannins but lacking the complexity of the Frank. Perhaps with another few years in the bottle this wine will overtake the Frank Family Napa Cab. But not tonight. Rated **1/2
This little guy doesn’t have a guilty bone in his body. Neither should you. Every Wednesday I will write-up a wine that I feel delivers good value for drinking in the middle of the week. Aside from quality, my only other criteria is price. To start, less than $15, but ideally less than $10, for a 750 ml bottle.
I will also add any recipes that I paired with the wine. I hope to leave you with a recipe that you can use to match up with a wine of your choice if you can’t locate the one I recommend.
No-Guilt Wednesday is not about compromising on quality. It’s about all about drinking good wine that does not break the bank, eating good food and of course, it’s about sharing with the ones you love.
Graffigna Centenario Reserve Malbec 2008 ($8). A killer value in wine! Initially hints of graphite on the nose. Dark fruit on the palate. Age-worthy tannins. From the San Juan region of Argentina, which is north of Mendoza, I have been seeing some fine wines coming from here. Rated **1/2
This week’s menu was the lazy man’s offering. Not being particularly motivated today, and this particular Wednesday being on the heels of a busy July 4th weekend, I chose the Path of Least Resistance. Ms. R and I had some ravioli from Trader Joe’s– filled with 3 cheeses, artichoke and olive. I made a quick butter/EVOO/sage sauce and that was dinner. We sat at the newly acquired Café Table now residing on the deck just off the living room. Lazy— yes— but romantic and we did not go hungry.
Lazy Sage-Butter Sauce
Ingredients:
- 2 Tbsp. Sweet (unsalted) Butter
- 3 Tbsp. EVOO
- 1 Tbsp. Fresh Sage chopped
Directions:
- Heat up the EVOO in a pan (I prefer a cast iron frying pan)
- Add the butter so that it melts but does not burn or carmelize
- Add Sage
- Season with salt to taste
- When pasta is ready, (reserve 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the pasta water) drain and add to the pan with the sauce
- Pour 1/4 cup of the pasta water and let the sauce coat the pasta– add more water if necessary
- Grate some Pecorino over the top and serve
Sybarite Sauvage ©
When I was younger (much younger), July 4th was one of my favorite holidays. I remember being thrilled and a little bit terrified by the loud explosions that accompanies fireworks displays. Then came my teenage years and young adulthood and I shied away from being a flag waving kind of guy. So there was a period of time when I didn’t feel compelled to attend fireworks displays although there was one memorable trip to Manhattan to watch the Macy’s Fireworks over the East River from Tudor City. There was also the insanity of getting out of there along with thousands of others (some of whom thought it would be fun to throw fireworks into the crowd). Yeah, that was FUN.
Then about 12 years ago, as my marriage was in the midst of disintegration, I started to reexamine what it was to be me. Newly separated, where did I see myself with my newly found independence going? The notion of Independence rang with an unexperienced and personal clarity for me. This was not merely an opportunity to leave a less than ideal situation– it was an opportunity redefine my personal destiny. An opportunity to create something greater or destroy everything. It is frightening and exhilarating as the same time– like being on a roller coaster without seat belts.
Toward the end of 2000, Ms. R came into my life. She is a dynamo of positive energy. She helps to define the path that we are both on. In early 2003, Ms. R had the idea to throw a party the weekend of July 4th. Thus was born the first Independence Celebration– a way to celebrate our country’s independence and our own very personal independence. This event, and its sister hangover recovery New Year’s Day event known as the “Hair of the Dog” Brunch, have become not only culinary milestones for me– an opportunity to stretch my capabilities in the kitchen– but also personal markers for us to see who we are and who are the friends that help to define us the most as the years have gone by.
In the past, I have tried different cuisines and I try not to repeat dishes. This year, is no different. The main event was a Peruvian dish called Lomo Saltado which I have had in Peruvian restaurant. A little East Meets West kind of thing going on: Steak marinated in a combination of primarily soy sauce, vinegar and cumin. Traditionally, this is stir fried, but we had a grilled version from Bobby Flay this year. Easy to prepare and delicious. Everyone was looking for the recipe. It’s out there on the internet. We served it with a variation on the classic Moros y Cristianos (Black Beans over White Rice) flavored with turkey bacon instead of a ham hock– another big hit.
In prior years this has been a predominantly wine event. But this year, beers all around and my buddy, CK’s high-test Margaritas as well as a Jamaican rum punch that another friend brought.
To open, however, I served a grilled sausages and a version of a Spanish dish, Grilled Camarones al Ajillo (Garlic Prawns). I love this dish because you cannot put too much garlic in it. Just be sure to allow at least 30 minutes for the marinade to soak in.
Grilled Camarones al Ajillo
2 lbs of shrimp thawed and peeled
For the Marinade:
- One head of garlic– separate, peel and roughly chop the cloves
- 1/2 cup fresh flat leaf parsley roughly chopped
- 1/2 cup EVOO
- 1/2 cup Amontillado (a semi sweet sherry)
Directions:
- Liquefy all ingredients in an electric blender– this will yield a beautifully green marinade
- Season the shrimp with salt and pepper and insert in a one gallon plastic bag
- Pour the green marinade over the shrimp and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes
- 1/2 hour before grilling, remove from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature
- Meanwhile bring the grill to a high temperature
- If you are inclined to do so, skewer the shrimp with previously hydrated bamboo skewers; if you’re lazy like me, just put them on the grill, but be prepared to lose a few as they slip through the grill grate.
- Grill the shrimp for no more than a couple of minutes per side
- Serve immediately
Sybarite Sauvage ©
This little guy doesn’t have a guilty bone in his body. Neither should you. Every Wednesday I will write-up a wine that I feel delivers good value for drinking in the middle of the week. Aside from quality, my only other criteria is price. To start, less than $15, but ideally less than $10, for a 750 ml bottle.
I will also add any recipes that I paired with the wine. I hope to leave you with a recipe that you can use to match up with a wine of your choice if you can’t locate the one I recommend.
No-Guilt Wednesday is not about compromising on quality. It’s about all about drinking good wine that does not break the bank, eating good food and of course, it’s about sharing with the ones you love.
"Excuse me, do you know the way back to the Alhambra Hotel?"
Venta Morales 2007 ($8). From La Mancha, Spain, a 100% tempranillo. A savory note on the nose which carried over to the palate where is mutated into ripe black plum flavors, finishing with initially drying tannins that softened as the wine opened up. Having said that, the wine lacked any real complexity and it was not the most balanced wine I have ever had. Still, in this price range, that’s OK, though better values abound. Rated *1/2
Tonight got me to thinking about Spain again. I was last there at the end of October, 1985. My new bride and I were in Granada on our honeymoon. Following a tip from the Let’s Go Spain guidebook, we ended up in this little outdoor cafe in the hills that rise above the Alhambra. To get there, we took a 10 minute cab ride. My spanish is decent enough that we were able to order a pitcher of beer and a fish dish. While waiting for the food to arrive, we were admiring the view of what appeared to be a castle on top of a nearby escarpment which was bathed in the light of a full moon. We could have been in Romania. The fish arrived– in a basket and deep-fried. Not exactly what I thought we were going to get. But too hungry to complain and too “not from there” to send it back. We dug into the basket. Best part was the little baby eels that had been turned into deep-fried “rings” by stuffing the tails into their mouths. These were truly delicious and the meat was delicate and sweet. 
Not the kind of thing I would make at home, but a great culinary memory. After the meal, close to midnight, we decided to return to the hotel. Of course, there wasn’t a cab in sight. Thus, we decided to– correction– we had no choice but to walk back. Anyway, we had bellies filled with beer and fried fish and the glow of the full moon to help light our way. Making our way down from that little neighborhood, through the ancient, secluded and deserted maze of streets, we began to wonder if we would make it back. All we knew was that we had to travel downhill to get back to the hotel. Being young, stupid and clueless, we also had no map. As we were passing one of the many narrow side streets we crossed paths with this dude dressed in classic Bela Lugosi style peering at us from one of the dark narrow side streets. I don’t want to say he scared us, but he definitely startled us. El Español Dracula fixed his freakishly bulbous eyes on us as we passed. he did not utter a single word. There was no one else on that side street with him which made the situation all the more weird and uncomfortable. Just after that moment, I realized that it was Halloween and that the next day would be All Saints Day– not a big deal here in the U.S. but a more significant holiday in Christian Spain. So I thought to myself, “This dude could be trouble.” Or maybe this was the Spanish version of “Trick or Treat” and this was part of his Halloween pranksterism. Or maybe, just maybe, he was the real deal who had descended from that castle on the tor. We didn’t linger over these philosophical-cultural questions. And I sure didn’t want to have a cameo appearance in the horror film running inside his head. Let’s just say that our pace quickened and we kept looking behind us as we beat it back to the hotel.
What does this story have to do with this Wednesday’s meal? Probably nothing and perhaps everything. Here is a riff on paella. Only no rice this time. The Bulgur Wheat Pilaf is an easy and quick thing to make once the Bulgur has been softened in boiled water. And because of its nutty and more bland character, I find that it makes a perfect counterpoint to the Chicken Braised in a Bewitching Saffron Infused Broth.
Pollo Azafran Brujo with Bulgur Wheat Pilaf
Ingredients:
For the Chicken
- 2 Tbsp. EVOO
- 5-6 Chicken Drumsticks
- 4 Chicken thighs
- 1 tsp saffron
- 1 Quart Chicken Stock
- 1 small 8 oz can of tomato sauce
- 1 White Onion diced
- 1 Red Bell Pepper diced
For the Bulgur Wheat
- 2 cups Whole Grain Bulgur Wheat
- 6 Cups Boiling Water
- 2 garlic cloves minced
- 1 medium red onion diced
- 1 cup of frozen petite peas
- 3 Tbsp. Peanut Oil
- 2 Tbsp. Unsalted Butter
Directions:
- Start to prepare the Bulgur Wheat Pilaf by pouring boiling water over the Bulgur Wheat in a heat proof bowl. Set aside to let Bulgur Wheat absorb the liquid and soften.
- Season the chicken with salt and pepper
- Heat up a pan and add EVOO. Brown the chicken in small batches so as not to crowd the pan with too much of the chicken at one time.
- While the chicken is browning, place the chicken stock in a pan with the saffron and bring to a boil. Add the tomato sauce. and turn down heat to a simmer.
- Once all the chicken is browned, remove to a platter and add the diced pepper and onion and cook till onion is softened.
- Return the chicken to the pan, add the simmering stock to cover the chicken and bring the mixture to a boil.
- Reduce heat to a simmer and cover. Cook for 45 minutes or until chicken easily pulls off the bone. Turn off heat and set aside covered.
- Drain the Bulgur Wheat in a colander or strainer
- In a clean pan, saute the garlic in the Peanut Oil until aromatic, but not but burned/browned.
- Add the Red Onion and Petite Peas and saute over medium heat until the onion is softened.
- Add the Drained Bulgur Wheat and the Unsalted Butter and fold the ingredients together
- Plate the Bulgur Wheat Pilaf and serve chicken over top. Make sure to spoon the saffron broth over both.
Serves 4
But just like Bela Lugosi in Return of the Vampire, this meal also has a second act. If you end up with more of the broth than you need, like I did, you can bring it to a boil on the stove top one night and toss in some seasoned uncooked prawns for about 3 minutes and serve with some warm garlic bread that can be used to soak up the broth. This will definitely be a better sequel than Return of the Vampire!
Sybarite Sauvage ©
A "Classic" Dish Form the 70s? TF&C: Nasty back then in an "I'm too poor to buy real groceries" kind of way. Still Nasty Today!
At my house, we grill the pizzas and put whatever toppings happen to be in the fridge.
First off, let me say that we cheat on the dough. Who has time to make dough? OK, maybe you do if you have enough time to read this stupid blog, but I’m too busy writing the dumb blog to make my own.
There is something about the communal aspect of pizza that I love. It is a dish that is meant to be shared. Food of love and friendship. That about sums up Friday evening for me, Ms. R and two great friends, B the Elder and his bubbly, lovely spouse T.
I am passionate about homemade pizza– it’s the improvisational jazz instrument of the kitchen. All right, perhaps that’s a little too freakin’ artsy— even for my fancy ass. Point is, you make of it what you will. Whatever tastes good to you, go for it.
Speaking of which, years ago, my college room-mate, BJ, “invented” Boiled Tuna Fish and Corn au Cannery (all right, that last flourish was mine). Nasty you say? Perhaps. I don’t doubt he would have put it on a pizza had he thought to do that. Years later I experienced the magic of corn and crab at a downtown NYC eatery– different, yes, but not so far removed from BTF&C. The highlight of the dinner that evening for everyone, except Ms. R, was a creamy corn bisque served in a tall straight shot glass with a tiny (the size of a fingernail) deep-fried baby crab perched on the rim as if climbing in for a swim in the velvet liquid. We dubbed it the “Fear Factor” dish. Deep fried crunchy crab with a chowder chaser. Ms. R crapped out on us having none of that nasty little crab on the rim– couldn’t do it, no way, unh-unh, no-how, “Hell to the NO!” So when it comes to food are there any combinations that are too nasty? Yep– even today, I won’t look at BTF&C. But what about on pizza? Anybody out there brave enough? Nobody on Friday night.
I never really start out with a specific recipe of toppings in mind. Usually, I grab whatever is in the fridge and just toss it on in crazy combinations. Here, in no particular order, is what we used last Friday:
- Sliced Red Onion
- Diced Yellow Bell Pepper
- Pesto
- Sun-dried Tomato Ribbons
- Domestic Prosciutto
- Dried Salami thinly sliced
- Sliced Campari Tomatoes
- EVOO
- Steamed Asparagus
- White Truffle Oil
- Mozzarella Grated
- Goat Cheese Crumbled
- Grated Parmesan
- Julienne of Roasted Red Peppers
- Kalamata Olives chopped
- Crushed Red Pepper flakes
- Pea Shoots (tossed on after the pizza is cooked)
- Truffle salt (whoa!–a specialty item Ms. R found for me in San Francisco)
The randomness of the order is intentional as it is my habit to top the pizza with whatever strikes my fancy at the moment.
There were four of us and 3 lbs. of pizza dough. This is disgusting, but we just kept making pizzas all night till the dough was gone. And there were NO LEFTOVERS. Just as well we loaded up on the carbs as there were three bottles of wine that needed drinking and again— NO LEFTOVERS (heh-heh!).
As for the making of the pizza, we stretched out the dough put it on a floured pizza peel and after dressing with ingredients onto a grill turned to a low temperature so as not to burn the crust while cooking the ingredients on top. About 5-7 minutes per pizza. The Key: shut the top of the grill for four minutes before peeking at the pizza and try not to walk away from that grill!
Bottles Popped? Primarily from Paso Robles.
Lone Madrone Barfendel 2007. Ah, the unfortunately moniker– Barfendel– from Lone Madrone. A blend of Zinfandel (58%), Petit Syrah (24%) and Barbera (18%). I loved this wine when I first tasted it last December, I don’t love it any less now. It had focused, sharply defined berry flavors, soft yet balanced acidity, an elegant nose and more. With a name like that, it had better be good and it is. Rated ***
Adelaida Syrah 2003. I didn’t really think we could top the Barfendel. I would be– wrong. Sweet and savory. Hints of wood and earth. And with 8 years of age, perfectly tamed tannins. Rated ***1/2
Yes, we decanted both. These wines are part of the reason that Paso is showing the world that they have arrived. Years ago, I was a big fan of the wines of J. Lohr in the eastern part of Paso. These two wines come from the Western and Southwestern parts of Paso where the nights tend to be cooler. The best are bold, but they also have finesse. And this needs to be said, these wines are distinctive from those you find in Napa & Sonoma– not better, just different.
Note: I know that I have previously rated the Barfendel as ***1/2. And yet, here I am with a *** rating. This is more a reflection of the fact that the Adelaida Syrah showed just a little bit better– but the Adelaida Syrah is also twice as old as the Lone Madrone Barfendel and a completely different varietal. So a comparison is not truly fair. But stuff just happens, if you know what I mean. If you get to Paso, don’t miss either of these two producers. Also, the tasting room staff at both of these places were courteous, helpful and knowledgeable. Need I say more?
Both of these are damn good PIZZA WINES. I mean this in the best possible way.
Speaking of pizza… BJ, may have been onto something…
Daaaaaamn! This actually looks good!
This little guy doesn’t have a guilty bone in his body. Neither should you. Every Wednesday I will write-up a wine that I feel delivers good value for drinking in the middle of the week. Aside from quality, my only other criteria is price. To start, less than $15, but ideally less than $10, for a 750 ml bottle.
I will also add any recipes that I paired with the wine. I hope to leave you with a recipe that you can use to match up with a wine of your choice if you can’t locate the one I recommend.
No-Guilt Wednesday is not about compromising on quality. It’s about all about drinking good wine that does not break the bank, eating good food and of course, it’s about sharing with the ones you love.
Santa Ema Reserve Chardonnay 2008 ($7). With a $7 price tag, the expectations for this week’s wine are not particularly high. On the other hand, this Chardonnay comes from Santa Ema which is a reliable Chilean producer of some very nice reds including well-regarded reserve Merlot and reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. I have had both of these reds and am a fan so naturally, I had to try the Chard. When it comes to Chardonnay, I am not partial to the fat, buttery style of many a New World Chardonnay. Rather, I prefer a leaner style that isn’t too acidic. But I do want a little roundness on the palate. So how does this chardonnay stack up?
This is not a complex Chard. Rather, it’s like a beach in a bottle, offering up aromas of pina collada with a waft of sunblock (in a good way) floating through the air. On the palate, the texture was more viscous than expected. Juicy papaya strutted with banana and some toasty oak which is polished off with a soupςon of green olive and soft acidity on the finish. Can you smell the ocean? I can. Next time I go to the playa, this one is coming with me. Rated **
Cuisine du Wednesday? Given the stress I had with the paella last week, this week called for a lighter more relaxed touch. Ergo the return to a white wine. And a return to a favorite fish– salmon. Yes, I have the beach on my mind. Perhaps because Ms. R is there right now and I am here, slaving over a chilled Chardonnay and…
I love the fattiness of salmon. This one was wrapped in foil and roasted/steamed in a hot oven. It’s a technique that we used recently with sole (see the May 20, 2011 post). But let’s up the ante by adding two other of my favorite ingredients– turkey bacon and asparagus. Turkey bacon may not be considered to be a gourmet ingredient. However, I often find it preferable to regular bacon because of its crunchier texture when properly cooked. The key to making it is to add a little canola oil to the pan which gives the turkey bacon, a very lean ingredient, a needed boost of fat and helps to prevent it from scorching. The salmon can be plated on a bed of rice, bulgur wheat or simply over greens dressed with a light citrus dressing– it all depends on how heavy a meal you would like.
The dish is a study in contrasts and balance: I love maple syrup with bacon. Voila– Sweet Salmon vs. Salty Turkey. I am enamored by texture in my food: Soft Rice vs. Crispy Bacon. Then there is the savory nuttiness of the asparagus as counterpoint to the Blank Slate of Simple White rice. Happy does not begin to describe how this makes me feel.
Oven-Baked Maple Salmon with Asparagus & Toasted Turkey Bacon “Linguine”
Ingredients
- 1 lb. Wild-Caught Salmon seasoned with salt and pepper
- 1/8 Cup EVOO
- 1/8 Cup Maple Syrup
- Two Tbsp. melted butter
- 1 Tbsp. Fresh Thyme
- 8 strips of turkey bacon cut lengthwise into thin strips
- 1 Tbsp. Canola Oil
- 10 thin Asparagus Spears (if this is not available the thicker ones may be used, but be peeled to remove the fibrous outer skin
- 1 Tbsp. EVOO to saute the Asparagus
- 1/4 Tsp. Black sesame seeds
- Thyme Sprig for garnish
Directions:
- Preheat oven to 400°
- Combine the Melted Butter, EVOO, Maple Syrup and Thyme in a bowl and brush onto the Salmon
- Wrap the salmon in aluminum foil, leaving enough room for the salmon to “breathe”, but ensuring tha no steam will escape
- Place on a cooking sheet in the oven for 35 minutes
- While the Salmon is cooking, heat up a pan and add the Canola Oil
- Cook the Turkey Bacon strips in the pan being careful not to scorch but making sure that the Turkey Bacon is crisped up and set aside
- While the Turkey Bacon is cooking, steam the Asparagus to make it tender, but ensure that it turns a bright green color and then plunge in an ice bath to stop the cooking
- Remove the Salmon from the oven and set aside– do not pierce the foil since we want the salmon to stay warm while the dishes are
- Add 1 Tbsp. EVOO to the same pan that the Turkey Bacon was cooked in and saute the Asparagus until it begins to carmelize
- Remove Asparagus and pat dry with paper towels
- Toss the Asparagus with the Turkey Bacon strips and plate
- Pierce the foil making sure not to burn yourself with the escaping steam and plate the salmon over a bed of your favorite grains or greens (such as a red leaf lettuce).
- Make sure to spoon some of the maple-butter-olive oil sauce over the salmon and sprinkle with Black Sesame Seeds
- Garnish with Thyme Sprig
Serves 2
Sybarite Sauvage ©
That indeed is the question. Having spent virtually no time pondering it, I can say the choice is fraught with risks. But why spit to begin with? Seems like a waste of perfectly good wine, no? Typically, professional tasters do this when assessing a number of wines to determine relative quality and to make buy/no-buy decisions. No good can come of making a decision to a buy a bottle, case (or a pallet) of something toward the end of an afternoon of swallowing wines. Been there, done that. 
sybaritesauvage 